I’ve been living in Strasbourg the past year, and before that, I visited just about every month. Each visit entailed a walk around the city discovering new things and it’s something I continue even now. Strasbourg is the perfect French mesh of traditional and trendy, with institutions you just have to visit but also new hip spots that are begging to be uncovered. Just like my Paris list, I’ve started writing down a few of my favorite places that I go to time and time again, and love, for the products and the people they represent.
Binschstub – when you come to Strasbourg or Alsace, you have to try tarte flambee or flamenkuche. It’s a super thing pizza with creme fraiche, bacon, and onions on top. This place only serves tarte flambee (and lots of different options) and uses 100% locally sourced ingredients. 6 rue de Tonnelet Rouge, Strasbourg – http://www.binchstub.fr/
Maison Kammerzell – ok fine. It might be a bit touristy but it’s cute and they make “choucroute”, another regional dish, quite well. Also, looking out the window that is fashioned out of the bottoms of wine bottles, in one of the oldest buildings in Strasbourg is quite cool as well. The fish choucroute is very good. 16 Place de la Cathedral, Strasbourg – https://www.maison-kammerzell.com/en/
Brasserie des Haras – fantastic upscale dining in a remodeled horse stable. The wood staircase is a work of art! 23 rue des Glacieres, Strasbourg – http://www.les-haras-brasserie.com/
Pont des Vosges – WOW. This place is good. It’s like stepping back in time to the classic brasseries you see in old French movies. The service is impeccable. The food is fantastic (portions were a little small for me). All traditional French food- and so well made. 15 Quai Koch, Strasbourg – http://www.lepontdesvosges.fr/en/
La Hache – a hip new bistro in Strasbourg. Modern takes on French classics with flair. Getting fantastic reviews. 11 rue de la Douane, Strasbourg – http://www.la-hache.com/
Au Brasseur – great for a casual inexpensive traditional meal. It can get super busy, especially when they’re offering unlimited tarte flambee during happy hour! 22 rue des Veaux, Strasbourg – http://www.aubrasseur.fr/
Bistro Coco – fun little bistro tucked in a side street. The inside is quirky and charming, and the food… beautifully presented and delicious. 8 rue de l’Ecurie, Strasbourg – https://www.facebook.com/bistrotcocostrasbourg/?locale2=fr_FR
Le Botaniste – craving something a bit more fresh but bursting with flavor, after all the Alsacian food? Go here 🙂 Gorgeous food, seasonal, using the best ingredients. A nice selection of vegetarian dishes too. 3 rue Thiergarten, Strasbourg – http://lebotanistestrasbourg.fr/
Cafe Brant – I love this place for the setting. It’s outside the city center by the university and is one of those with the white tablecloths blowing in the wind and waiters in suits. The food is decent, but I’d recommend going here in the summer and sitting on the terrace for a drink. 11 Place de l’Universite, Strasbourg – http://www.cafe-brant.fr/
L’Hedoniste – This restaurant is near and dear to me, near as in seriously right across the street! Upscale dining without the stuffiness. They are a farm to market kind of restaurant using all local produce. It is tiny, so definitely book in advance. 1 rue Shimper, Strasbourg – https://www.lhedoniste-restaurant.fr/
Milano Torino – known as MiTo’s in Strasbourg. A total switch from the above- they make dang good pizza. Their cocktails are delicious too. 8 Place d’Austerlitz, Strasbourg – http://milanotorino.eu/strasbourg/
Restaurants Outside of the City:
Restaurant Kirmann – someone described this to me as a restaurant a crazy man put together by taking the fronts of a lot of traditional Alsatian homes and putting them side by side in a rectangle to form a courtyard. And… that’s exactly what it is. It’s even covered in the winter! The decorations are always .. unique and modern, clashing against the traditional. This spot has character and it’s just darn fun! It’s also great if you’re out exploring Christmas markets in the little villages and think shoot! where should we go for dinner- as it has a lot of seats, and you can usually get in without a reservation. Tarte Flambee goes non-stop in the evenings, the rest of their menu is very good too. The pork “jarret” is fantastic. 6 rue des Allies, Epfig – https://www.kirmann.com/
Oberjaegerhof – try saying that more than two times. Very classical with French dishes like bouchee a la reine – chicken curry with mushrooms in a puff pastry receptacle with spatzel. YUM. Now I haven’t been here, but it’s been well recommended, and I’ve heard, it’s great in the summer to eat outside, and they have a bird menagerie that’s fun for the kids! 1 route de Oberjaegerhof, Strasbourg – http://oberjaegerof.free.fr
From day one, if my visit to Strasbourg included a Saturday morning, we were at the market, at least one, sometimes two, and then a boulangerie and a patisserie after that. Still now that tradition continues, with an earlier rise than most on a Saturday morning to hit the stands and buy products for the week. If you’re in Strasbourg for a vacation, it might not be your top thing to do, but it’s certainly fun to walk through and maybe buy a couple things to try, like uh hum.. the best goat cheese I’ve ever had in my life!
*Just a note, markets usually start at 8am and are over by about 12:30pm, unless it’s in the afternoon!
The Producer’s Market: on the side street by La Nouvelle Duane in the city center. Saturday morning
A smaller market than the others, but very unique in that all the vendors are producers, aka it’s all farm direct! We love La Ferme de Trois Chiene for its ham and sausages. My favorite flower stand is mid-way, with a sweet older gentleman that will give you advice and maybe a story or two with each purchase. The vegetable stand just next to the sausage stand (also about midway through) has THE BEST TOMATOES I’VE EVER HAD… in my life. I’m not kidding. Worth every single euro.
After hitting up the market, there are two more stops you need to make, the brocante (antique) market just across the street (you’ll see it), and Thierry Mulhaupt Patisserie just up the street, but more on that below.
Marche Neudorf: In, you guessed it… the section of town called Neudorf! Saturday mornings. It’s an up and coming neighborhood, a bit hipster, but that’s certainly not a bad thing. This is a mostly covered market in the square called “Place du Marche” (market square). Just about all of the stands are inside, and those are the ones you want to hit up. There is a good boulangerie stand for bread outside though! For… the best goat cheese you’ve ever had, ever, head to the door on the left side (looking from the main entrance). When visiting the exit on the left side of the building, turn to your right, and there she is! We like the “bouche cendre”, the fresh goat cheese with herbs and other seasonings is great too, well all of it’s great really.
Marche de l’Esplanade: on Boulevard de la Marne (pronounced “boulevard day la man”) Saturday and Tuesday mornings. This is the biggest farmers market in Strasbourg. On one side of the boulevard, you’ll find more ethnic stands with fun veggies and fruits, and on the other, traditionally French! (plus the mattress guy.. of course). On Saturday, there’s a stand for my favorite chocolate.
Patisseries & Ice Cream:
Helterle Patisserie – Our absolute favorite in Strasbourg hands down. It’s a family run business. The dad and son are the pastry chefs. The son worked at the Meurice in Paris and it just shines through in the finesse and combination of flavors. The mom always works the shop on the weekends and we’ve gotten a couple “tut tut’s” and advice at how many pastries we walk away with- HA! Love it. My favorites… the super old fashioned dessert called “Le Pomme de Terre” aka potato! It’s genoise sponge cake wrapped around a vanilla pastry cream filling, all this covered with marzipan and decorated with cocoa powder to look like the vegetable it’s shaped as- it’s fabulous. My other favorites.. their religieuse with passion fruit and caramel, and their torche aux marrons. 96 route de Mittelhausbergen, Strasbourg – http://www.patisseriehelterle.fr/
Christian – This is just the place the institution you go to for pastries in Strasbourg. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen their bags across town. And it’s that way for a reason. It’s just good pastry. Well done, classic, well priced, and just the place to go when you want something sweet. Their tea rooms are a lot of fun to go to as well. And in the summer…. do not miss their ice cream or.. their gourmet ice cream popsicles. Now what are they good for? Really just go for any of their pastries. You won’t be disappointed. I love the Bombe Caramel, and I got a good tip about the almond chocolate sandwich cookie (perfect to have with a coffee). 12 rue de l’Outre and 10 rue Merciere (by the Cathedral) http://www.patisseriehelterle.fr/
Thierry Mulhaupt – Famous in these parts as well. Beautiful refined pastries, if sometimes a little stuffy for my taste. We used to go here all the time, and still love it, especially for the lime basil tart… and the St Honore- WHOA. Another guilty pleasure for a snack, the tigré, a little almond cake with a nice glob of chocolate ganache in the middle. Fantastic. You can see it in the picture above, top right. 18 rue de Vieux Marche aux Poissons and 5 rue du Temple Neuf – https://www.mulhaupt.fr/
Tea Rooms & Coffee Shops
Au Fond du Jardin – I love this place. It’s so warm and cozy and has the nicest owners! They do two things, tea and madelines, but not just so, we’re talking elaborate cakes that take 10 minutes each to decorate by hand and are named after famous French movie stars and films. The teas… while all I can say, is just ask the story behind one of them. The cute gentleman up front is one of the owners and designed them himself. I particularly love the one meant to epitomize the feeling of gazing out the window while on a train.. yes. Book in advance if you’d like to go for tea!! 6 rue de la Rape – https://aufonddujardin.fr/en/
Cafe Bertelles – I just found this one this week! The coffee environment you want! Modern hip interior, great guys behind the counter, fabulous coffee, and essentially the go to place for locals. 2 rue Fritz – https://www.facebook.com/coffeeshopCafeBretelles/
Cafe Reck – Now this is more for people that live in Strasbourg or coffee connassieurs that like to take back an awesome bag of coffee. This is where we get our coffee. Locally roasted, and ya reallllll good. They have a coffee bar there as well if you’d just like to go grab a cup. 24 rue de la Rochelle – https://www.reck.fr/
Epiceries & Cheese & More
OH Epicerie – named after Olivia and Hugo, the couple that owns the shop! We go here, a lot. It’s the place to go for artisanal food products, all carefully chosen from small producers in France that are doing it right. The owners know each of the products by heart, so if you’re looking for the best pepper or bottle of wine or mustard or olive oil, just ask! It’s also the perfect place to go for a cheese and charcuterie platter, supplies for raclette in the winter, stuff for a picnic, or a darn good sandwich. Their chocolate selection is spot on. Oh, and it’s great for food gifts! 7 rue de la Brigade Alsace-Lorraine – https://epicerie-oh.com/
Cloche a Fromage – beautiful cheese shop by Place Gutenberg. They have more than 200 cheeses in their case and have an aging cave outside of the city where they keep the cheeses they purchase from producers until they are aged to perfection. 32 rue des Tonneliers – http://www.fromagerie-tourrette.com/
Maison Azoulay Merguez – we heard about this shop from Oliva and Hugo and it’s probably where we go for most of our meat now. They have amazzzzzing merguez (a spicy sausage) and age their meat beautifully. It’s certainly a hole in the wall in the middle of a residential area. 16 rue de la Kurvau – https://maison-azoulay.fr/
I tend to prefer the little towns outside of Strasbourg for their Christmas markets. There is just so much charm to it and the whole village will come together to put them on. Definitely consider renting a car (it’s a lot cheaper than you think), or hoping on the train to visit some of these.
Barr – this was my favorite last year. Small, quaint and I felt like the only English speaker. Each school grade had decorated a tree as well that had been put on display.
Ribeauville – you can see the article I did on the Xmas markets here.
Helpful info on visiting the markets in smaller towns: They’re usually just on the weekends. Make sure you check online that they’re indeed having a market before you go. Dress warm and don’t forget cash for purchases! Lots of ingo here too: https://noel.tourisme-alsace.com/en
What have I missed?? Keep adding to the list below in the comments 🙂